Run by Francis Egly, Domaine Egly-Ouriet has become a cult Champagne for devotees around the world. Established in 1930. Francis’ father Michel Egly made some of the first ‘grower’ champagnes, bottling a third of his crop. When Francis took over in 1982 he decided to bottle the entire production, which amounts to less than 6,000 cases from his 29 acres of holdings. He is part of only a handful of growers in Champagne who follow biodynamic, organic or ‘living soil’ principals of viticulture. Egly believes that wine is made in the vineyard. He also believes in aiming for full grape ripeness, still a minority view in Champagne. He looks for low yields from old vines, and green harvests when necessary. Oxidation is minimal and very controlled: he barrel ferments about half his crop and sources barrels that allow the vinification of small parcels, and a less reductive aging on the lees. Native yeasts only, no batonnage, and malolactic fermentation only if the vintage warrants it. No more than 8-10 months in wood. There’s no fining or filtration, as the cellars are very cold (this also allows minimal use of sulfur). He believes in long aging on the fine lees. Egly Champagne is dry but rich, very vinous, powerful, intense, nuanced and long in the mouth. The remarkable thing is that wines of such power retain such finesse.