The founder of Le Piane, Antonio Cerri, was among the tremendously small and dedicated group of producers who fought through phylloxera, replanted the indigenous varietals, and worked tirelessly to preserve what was left. He farmed well into his 80s. Fortunately, he was able to pass the torch when he met Christoph Künzli, a Swiss importer who first visited the area in the early 1990s. By then the appellation’s vineyards covered only 25 acres, down from almost 10,000 in the late 1800s. Entranced with the quality of Cerri’s wine and the potential of the land, Künzli and enologist Alexander Trolf, together with a group of international wine lovers, leased and then bought Cerri’s vineyards and then acquired further parcels in the best locations. With passion and hard work they transformed Le Piane into one of Italy’s most revered estates. Following their success, Boca now boasts ten producers and 75 acres under vine. The vines are worked organically, but Christoph has not sought certification.